For a report on last month's Mid-Atlantic Koi Club goldfish show at Koi America 2005, see our write up.
For info and updates on the Goldfish Report, take a look here for info from the editor on upcoming issues of the Goldfish Report and the publication schedule.
If you have let your membership lapse or have been thinking about joining the GFSA, now is a great time - here is a form you can print. To submit material for the Goldfish Report to editor Matt Lyon, please see the updated society contact info. Articles and photos in electronic form are particularly appreciated.
The current line-up of people filling the GFSA offices is on the society officers page.
Interested in joining the GFSA but still not sure? We have two sample Goldfish Reports available to download, to demonstrate that every issue is packed with thought provoking information and pictures available nowhere else. We are also promoting an electronic membership option that significantly lowers the cost of membership.
Lessons Learned "Quick Hits"
We are soliciting short lessons-learned from hobbyists: events that possibly left you sadder, but measurably wiser. Have a good one? Please send it to the . Here is yet another submission from the Webmaster:
The theory on finding a leak in your pond liner.
Assuming the crack, puncture, hole or whatever is somewhere other than on the very bottom, the water should leak out until it is at the level of the leaky spot and then stop. If it is hot weather and you have lots of pond plants the rate of decline in the water level may just slow significantly (since significant water may still be lost to plant transpiration). It may help to mark the water level daily, for a slow leak, and then take note when the level drops suddenly become much smaller.
Once you reach that point, then you need to follow the liner near the waterline all the way around until you find the leak source. There are repair kits available for EPDM and some of the other liner materials. You will probably need to drain the pond a bit further to allow drying of the patch area, and then curing of the patch adhesive.